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Ceramides vs. collagen: which one should you really choose for your skin?

Céramosides vs collagène : lequel choisir vraiment pour ta peau ?

That's the question many people are asking. Collagen is everywhere. In powder, capsules, and drinks. But ceramosides are starting to make waves, and for good reason.

We've read the studies for you. Here's what the science truly says, without the marketing spin.


What is collagen and why is everyone taking it?

Collagen is the most abundant structural protein in the body. It accounts for about 75% of the dry weight of skin and ensures its firmness, elasticity, and thickness. From the age of 25, our natural production decreases by about 1% per year. Hence the idea of supplementing it orally.

The principle is appealing. The scientific reality is more nuanced.


What independent studies really say about collagen

This is where it gets interesting. A meta-analysis published in 2025 in The American Journal of Medicine analyzed 23 randomized clinical trials involving 1474 participants.

Studies funded by pharmaceutical companies showed significant effects of collagen on hydration, elasticity, and wrinkles. But independent, industry-unfunded studies showed no significant effect of collagen on these same parameters. High-quality studies revealed no significant effect, while low-quality studies showed an improvement in elasticity.

Authors' conclusion: there is currently no strong independent clinical evidence to support the use of collagen supplements to prevent or treat skin aging.

Source: The American Journal of Medicine, 2025

This is not to say that collagen doesn't work. It's to say that the majority of the evidence comes from studies funded by the manufacturers themselves. A bias worth knowing about.


What are ceramosides and how do they work?

Ceramosides are phytoceramides extracted from wheat. Ceramides - of which they are a plant-based form - naturally make up 50% of the lipids in the skin's stratum corneum. They form the "intercellular cement" that retains water in the deep layers of the epidermis.

The problem: with age, ceramide production decreases. The skin barrier weakens, water escapes, the skin becomes dehydrated, and wrinkles appear. Oral phytoceramides work from within by reaching the deep layers of the skin via the bloodstream, where topical creams do not penetrate effectively.

But their mechanism of action goes even further. In vitro studies have shown that Ceramosides™ stimulate the production of a collagenase inhibitor in fibroblast cultures, thus preserving the integrity of the existing collagen network. They also inhibit elastase, the enzyme that degrades elastic fibers in the skin.

Source: Cosmacon / Seppic, 2025

In short: ceramosides don't just hydrate. They also protect the collagen and elastin you already have.


Clinical studies on ceramosides: what the numbers say

Bizot et al. study, 2017 — published in Cosmetics (MDPI)
Randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study, 60 volunteers with dry and wrinkled skin, 60 days of supplementation with wheat-derived phytoceramides.

Significant improvement in hydration (p<0.001), elasticity and softness, and significant decrease in trans-epidermal water loss, roughness and visible wrinkles in both phytoceramide groups compared to placebo.

Source: Bizot et al., Cosmetics, MDPI, 2017

Ceramosides HP Study, 2022
Randomized double-blind placebo-controlled study, 72 women aged 30 to 60, 30mg of Ceramosides™ powder daily.

In just 15 days: hydration +19%, reduction of transepidermal water loss -13%, elasticity +18%, wrinkle reduction -10% vs placebo. 91% of participants reported their skin felt significantly better hydrated and more elastic after treatment.

Source: Kern et al., Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2024


Ceramosides vs. collagen: an objective comparison

Mechanism of action
Collagen provides an exogenous structural protein whose absorption and delivery to the skin remain difficult to prove independently. Ceramosides restore the lipid barrier from within and actively protect existing collagen and elastin.

Time to action
Ceramosides show measurable results as early as 15 days in clinical studies. Collagen studies showing results generally work over 8 to 12 weeks.

Quality of evidence
Independent studies on collagen show no significant effects. Studies on ceramosides, including that of Bizot et al. published in a peer-reviewed journal, show statistically significant results.

Origin
Collagen is overwhelmingly of animal origin (marine or bovine). Ceramosides are of plant origin (wheat). It is a vegan choice, free of marine products.


So, ceramosides or collagen?

If your goal is to deeply hydrate the skin, strengthen its skin barrier, and reduce visible wrinkles with solid independent clinical evidence, plant-based ceramosides are currently better documented than collagen.

If you are vegan or looking to avoid animal-derived products, the question is moot. Collagen is almost systematically of marine or bovine origin.

And if you want both effects at the same time, the vitamin C and zinc contained in Kalü support the body's natural collagen synthesis, while ceramosides rebuild the skin barrier. This is the most comprehensive inside-out beauty approach: stimulating what your body naturally produces, rather than supplementing from the outside.


Frequently asked questions about ceramosides and collagen

Do ceramosides replace collagen?
Ceramosides and collagen do not act through the same mechanisms. Ceramosides restore the skin's lipid barrier and protect existing collagen. Vitamin C and zinc support natural collagen synthesis. This approach is clinically better documented than exogenous collagen supplementation.

Is marine collagen effective?
Manufacturer-funded studies show effects. Independent high-quality studies do not. A meta-analysis published in 2025 in The American Journal of Medicine, covering 23 clinical trials and 1474 participants, concludes there is no solid, independent clinical evidence for collagen supplements.

Are ceramosides vegan?
Yes. Plant-based ceramosides (phytoceramides) are extracted from wheat. They contain no animal-derived ingredients, unlike marine or bovine collagen.

How long do ceramosides take to work?
Clinical studies on Ceramosides™ show measurable results as early as 15 days: hydration +19%, elasticity +18%, wrinkles -10% vs placebo (Kern et al., Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2024).

Does Kalü contain collagen?
No. Kalü is 100% vegan and contains no animal collagen. The formula combines plant-based ceramosides (30mg), natural vitamin C and zinc to support skin beauty from within without any animal-derived ingredients.


Scientific sources

Bizot V, Cestone E, Michelotti A, Nobile V. Improving Skin Hydration and Age-related Symptoms by Oral Administration of Wheat Glucosylceramides and Digalactosyl Diglycerides: A Human Clinical Study. Cosmetics, MDPI, 2017: https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics4040037

Effects of Collagen Supplements on Skin Aging: A Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis of Randomized Controlled Trials. The American Journal of Medicine, 2025: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0002934325002839

Kern et al. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2024 — Céramosides HP clinical study

Yong et al. Ceramides and Skin Health: New Insights. Experimental Dermatology, Wiley, 2025: https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/exd.70042

Cosmacon / Seppic. Phytoceramides — Ceramosides HP. 2025: https://www.cosmacon.de/en/glossary/phytoceramides/